What to Eat in Montreal: A Food Guide

What to eat in Montreal

• Bagels at St-Viateur / Fairmount

  Boiled in honey water + wood-fired — 60¢ each, 24/7. Not NYC bagels — sweeter, chewier.

• Smoked meat at Schwartz's

  Since 1928 — order 'medium fat' sandwich CA$12 with pickle + cherry Coke.

• Poutine at La Banquise

  24/7 — fries + cheese curds + gravy CA$10; 30+ variations.

• French bistro at Joe Beef / Toqué! / Au Pied de Cochon

  Joe Beef is Anthony Bourdain's Canadian pick; Au Pied de Cochon is foie gras + duck heaven.

What to drink

Tap water excellent. Craft beer scene strong (Dieu du Ciel!, Brasserie Harricana, Vices & Versa). Ice cider (cidre de glace) is a Quebec specialty. Cafés — Café Olimpico + Myriade + Pikolo the classics.

Dining etiquette and practicalities

• Tipping 15–20% at restaurants; 5% GST + 9.975% QST added at register.

• Start with 'bonjour' — even if you switch to English immediately, the greeting matters.

• Terrasse (patio) season May–September is sacred; book weekend dinners 1–2 weeks ahead.

Where to eat in Montreal

• Vieux-Montréal (Old Montreal)

  Cobblestone, boutique hotels in 200-year-old warehouses — Hotel Nelligan, Auberge du Vieux-Port, William Gray, Le Petit.

• Downtown / Ville-Marie

  Business core, shopping (Sainte-Catherine), RÉSO gateway — Fairmont Queen Elizabeth (Lennon/Ono Bed-In), Ritz-Carlton, Four Seasons.

• Plateau Mont-Royal

  Spiral-staircase Victorians, bagels (St-Viateur, Fairmount), smoked meat (Schwartz's), Mile End cafés.

• Mile End

  Bohemian arts quarter, Ubisoft HQ, indie boutiques, best coffee scene.